A knitted sweater can withstand a surprising amount of wear and tear – but almost nothing that a regular machine wash can do to it. How to wash knitwear without it pilling, shrinking or stretching? The answer lies not in an expensive detergent, but in three things: low temperature, minimal movement and proper drying.
In this guide, we'll go over why knitwear behaves differently than other fabrics, how to read the washing instructions, hand washing step by step, when machine washing actually works, how to dry the garment so it keeps its shape – and how to get rid of pilling and odor without washing at all.
Content
- Why does knitwear pill and shrink?
- Read the washing advice first – material by material
- How to hand wash knitwear step by step
- Can knitwear be machine washed?
- Drying – the step that determines the shape
- Buds, odor and storage
- Our favorites right now
- Frequently asked questions
- Summary
Why does knitwear pill and shrink?
Wool is made up of fibers with microscopic scales on the surface. When the scales are exposed to heat, water and friction at the same time, they interlock and lock together – the fibers are pulled together and cannot be pulled apart again. This is why a wool sweater can come out of the machine two sizes smaller and with a surface texture similar to felt. The shrinkage is permanent because it is mechanical, not a matter of the fabric temporarily "shrinking".
Cotton and acrylic do not felt in the same way, but they have another problem: weight. A wet knitted garment weighs several times its dry self, and the stitch is elastic. If you hang it up wet, the weight pulls out the neck, sleeves and hem – and that shape remains when the garment dries. A oversized sweater in acrylic blend So it withstands washing well, but not the hanger.
The conclusion is simple: it's not the detergent that ruins knitwear. It's the movement in the drum, the temperature, and how the garment dries.
Read the washing advice first – material by material
The washing advice in the side seam is always a given, but it rarely says why. This table translates the most common knit materials into practical action:
| Material | How do you wash? | Think about |
|---|---|---|
| Wool and merino | Wool program 30° or hand wash, wool detergent | Tangles from friction – never wring out |
| Cashmere and alpaca | Hand wash 20–30°, very gentle | Most delicate of all, wash separately |
| Cotton | Delicate wash 30–40°, low spin | Shrinks in length, stretches out by hanger |
| Acrylic and acrylic mixture | Delicate wash 30°, machine washable | Peels easily, avoid high heat |
| Viscose and lyocell | Delicate wash 30°, laundry bag | Weakest when wet – handle with care |
Two symbols are worth memorizing: a sink with a hand means hand washing and nothing else, and a crossed-out triangle means that bleach will destroy the fiber. A crossed-out square with a circle in it means that the dryer is completely out of the question – which it is for basically all knitwear. The same logic applies to linen, by the way, which we go through in the guide about how to wash linen.
How to hand wash knitwear step by step
Hand washing sounds cumbersome but takes under ten minutes of active time, and it is the only method that is completely risk-free for cashmere and alpaca.
- Fill the sink with lukewarm water., about 30 degrees.The water should feel neutral to the hand, not hot.
- Dissolve the wool detergent in the water before adding the garment. Undissolved agent directly on the fabric may cause stains.
- Place the shirt in and press it down gently. Leave it on for 10–15 minutes. Don't rub or stir – it's the friction that causes the felting.
- Rinse in water of the same temperature. A temperature shock between washing and rinsing is in itself enough to shock the wool fiber.
- Squeeze out the water, never twist. Lift the garment as a whole with both hands so that the weight does not hang in one sleeve.
- Roll the sweater in a terry towel and pressure. The towel will draw out most of the water in a couple of minutes.
A common mistake is to let the garment soak for hours, thinking it will get cleaner. It won't – the dirt comes off in minutes, and soaking for too long will mostly cause the fiber to swell.
Can knitwear be machine washed?
Yes, more often than most people think. If the machine has a proper wool program, it is often gentler than a sloppy hand wash, as the program keeps the drum almost still and rinses without temperature changes. There are three conditions: wool program or delicate wash at 30 degrees, spin at a maximum of 600 rpm, and the garment turned inside out in a laundry bag.
The laundry bag does more good than you think. It not only protects against zippers and snagging on other garments – it also limits how much the garment can move in the drum, which is exactly what causes pilling. Never run knitwear together with jeans, towels or anything with a zipper.
Acrylic mixtures are the most forgiving. A acrylic blend v-neck sweater or one light turtleneck can withstand gentle washing week after week without losing its shape. Pure wool and cashmere, on the other hand, benefit from being washed as infrequently as possible.
Drying – the step that determines the shape
This is where everything is decided. A garment that has been washed perfectly can be ruined on the drying rack, and a garment that has been washed carelessly can be saved by proper drying.
The rule is that knitwear always dries flat. Place a dry towel on a drying rack or table, place the sweater on top and shape it while it is still damp: pull the neck to the right width, straighten the sleeves, smooth the bottom edge. The shape you give the garment now is the shape it will have when it is dry. Turn it over after a few hours so that the underside also gets air.
Never hang knitwear on a hanger while it is wet – it is the single most common cause of stretched shoulders and "sagging stomach" at the bottom. Tumble dryers are out of the question for wool and risky for all other knitwear, because the heat and movement together do exactly what makes the fiber feel. If a wool sweater has shrunk, it can sometimes be saved: soak it in lukewarm water with a little conditioner, leave it for half an hour, and then carefully stretch the garment to the correct size while it is wet. The laundry expert at Femina goes through the same method in more detail.
Buds, odor and storage
The best wash is often no wash at all. Wool is self-cleaning in the sense that the fiber breathes out odors on its own – hang the sweater in an airy place overnight, preferably in a damp bathroom, and it will be fresh again. Most knitwear needs to be washed every third to fifth use, not after every use.
Pimples are not a sign of poor quality but of friction, usually under the arms and where a bag has been. Remove them with a pimple remover or a fine-toothed comb, always on a dry garment and always in one direction. Never cut – this will cut the stitch and create holes.
Store knitwear weight, never hanging. A hanger will stretch the shoulder area in weeks. Place the garments on a shelf or drawer, and put the heaviest ones at the bottom.Should one chunky wool sweater If you want to store your clothes over the summer, they should be clean when they are put away – moths feed on sweat and skin residues, not on the wool itself. If you want more ideas on how to use your clothes when they are clean, we have collected them in the guides on knitted sweater and what goes with a cardigan.
Our favorites right now
Three knitted garments that are easy to care for and keep their shape year after year:
- Women's Oversized Knitted Sweater in Soft Acrylic Blend – our best-selling sweater, can be washed delicately at 30° and retains its relaxed silhouette.
- Classic Wool Sweater with Chunky Texture – warm and heavy, hand wash or wool program and dry flat.
- Sofia – Soft Long Knitted Cardigan – easy-care layering piece that works over everything from dresses to jeans.
Frequently asked questions
What temperature should you wash knitwear at?
30 degrees is the rule for almost all knitwear. Cashmere and alpaca do best at 20–30 degrees by hand. If you go above 40 degrees, you risk both shrinkage and felting on wool.
Can you wash knitwear in a washing machine?
Yes, if the machine has a wool program or delicates, the spin speed is set to a maximum of 600 rpm and the garment is in a laundry bag. Never wash knitwear together with jeans, towels or garments with zippers.
How often do you need to wash a knitted sweater?
Every third to fifth use is enough for most people. Wool is usually aired fresh overnight, so hanging in the fresh air replaces many washes.
Why do wool sweaters shrink in the wash?
The wool fiber has scales on its surface that interlock when heat, water, and friction interact. The fibers lock into a tighter position and the garment shrinks permanently – that's why the movement in the drum is more dangerous than the detergent.
How do you dry knitwear without it getting stretched out?
Lay flat, on a towel, and shape the garment while it is damp. Never hang a wet knit garment on a hanger – the weight will permanently pull out the shoulders and hem.
How do you remove pilling from knitwear?
With a pincushion or fine-toothed comb on a dry garment, pulling in the same direction. Never cut off the pins, as this will cut the stitch and create holes.
Summary
Knitwear will last a long time if you keep the temperature at 30 degrees, minimize movement in the wash and always dry the garment flat. Hand washing is safest for wool and cashmere, while acrylic blends can withstand delicate washing without problems. Air out more often and wash less often, store garments folded instead of on a hanger – then the sweater will retain both shape and luster for many seasons.
Ready to stock up on your wardrobe? Explore our women's sweaters and women's cardigans.
